Sewing recommendation for knitted fabrics

Knitted fabrics are very different from woven fabrics in terms of their construction and can not be sewn in the same way. The following recommendations should be taken into account in order to avoid damage during sewing and confectioning.

Please note that these are recommendations only. Proper sewing tests should always be conducted prior to production in order to assure best quality.

Needle size
The size of the needle affects the fabric more than the needle type. For knitted fabrics, we recommend a needle size between Nm 90 and Nm 110. However,
this must be evaluated for different types of fabrics.

The risk of damaging the yarn increases along with the thickness of the needle. Therefore, the thinner the needle the better.

The needle should be checked and changed regularly as the slightest damage on the needle point could damage the fabric when penetrating it.

Needle type
Use a needle with a rounded tip, which is also called a ball-point or jersey needle. This type of needle will push the yarns out of the way instead of damaging them. Recommended types of needles are SES or SUK.

SES: Light ball-point, medium knitwear
SUK: Medium ball-point, fine and course knitwear

Thread size
To be chosen according to the needle size
Nylon and polyester threads are recommended

Thread tension on sewing machine
Tension of lower thread: 30 – 50 g
Tension of upper thread: 8 × lower thread

Sewing speed
Higher speed affects the fabric more than lower speed. Reducing the speed will always give better sewing results and may in some cases allow the use of
thicker needles.

Other recommendations
We do not recommend to glue knitted fabrics on furniture due to their construction and openness. When glued, knitted fabrics will loose their elasticity, which is a key advantage of the textile.

If gluing is absolutely necessary, a mock-up must be made before.

If knitted fabrics are used for pin boards, please be sure to use very thin needles in order to avoid damaging the yarns and holes in the fabric.

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